• The French Cuisine Revival Is Just Getting Started

    6 monthes ago - By Eater

    From Le Coucou in NYC to Bar Crenn in San Francisco, quennelles, pithivier, and tourteau fromagé are making their grand return to American tables Modern French gastronomy has never not been in crisis, in rupture from itself. Nouvelle cuisine was a response to the cream-laden excess of Marie-Antoine Carême and Auguste Escoffier; cuisine minceur distanced itself even further from their approach. Roger Vergé and Michel Bras made immaculate, seasonal vegetables, not animal protein, their raison d'être ; Alain Passard went one better and rejected meat entirely. Bistronomie stripped haute...
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